How to plant and grow a tomato "Red Leader"

In the past few years, hybrids with F1 marking have been widely popular among gardeners and amateur gardeners.

Such seeds are distinguished by high yield, excellent breeding qualities and are often self-pollinated.

Among these hybrids can be distinguished tomato "Red Leader" F1.

Variety description

Tomato "Leader of the Redskins" F1 - a relatively new hybrid, referring to super early varieties. The fruits ripen about 80-85 days after the first shoots appear.

Due to such high precocity, this variety is not terrible ordinary diseases characteristic of tomatoes - they just do not have time to develop and destroy the plant.

To the early ripening varieties of tomatoes include such as "Siberian early", "Mystery", "Mongolian dwarf", "Katya", "Liana", "Yamal".

Fully mature fruits in the northern latitudes of the European region can be collected by the beginning of the third decade of June. In the south of Eurasia, the variety can be planted without the use of seedlings.

Did you know? F1 in the name of the variety means a hybrid. Comes from Italian " filli", What means "children", but "1" - first generation hybrid.

The variety belongs to the determinant type, has an ordinary bush structure, whose height is 0.6-1 m. After germination of 5-6 leaves, the first brush appears. Then, after the next leaf, - another ovary, and so on.

"Leader" is great for growing in open ground and in greenhouses. In the northern regions, seedlings for seedlings are planted around the second week of April, and they are transferred to the ground in 55-60 days.

The advantages of the variety include the following:

  • short coolings to a plant are not terrible;
  • Tomato is well suited for whole preservation;
  • disease resistant;
  • fruits of large size with excellent taste characteristics.

Some disadvantages of this variety:

  • the structure of the fruit resembles a watermelon, it has large cells and is rather loose;
  • the almost complete absence of acid, the fruits are sweet, even in green form;
  • during ripening the fetus frowns.

Fruit characteristics and yield

The fruit has a rounded shape, weight - 130-160 g. Some fruits can reach a weight of 0.5 kg or more. Technical ripeness is characterized by a light green color with a white tint; full ripening colors the fruit red.

Depending on the region, ripening occurs in June-July. In the greenhouse, the yield is 9-11 kg per 1 sq. Km. m

Important! Do not water the tomatoes from the hose with tap water. Such water is too hard, and strong pressure and its low temperature can harm the plant.

Selection of seedlings

As already mentioned, in the southern regions of the tomato variety "Chief of the Red" in favorable weather conditions can be planted and seeds. But if you decide to stay in a more familiar way - planting seedlings, and the purchase, then its choice should be taken very seriously.

After all, the quality of the seedlings depends largely on what kind of harvest you will collect.

Of course, the most acceptable option is to purchase seedlings from a trusted manufacturer. If this is not possible, talk to the seller, ask him about this variety.

In the event that he confidently answers questions, shows and talks about the characteristic features of this species, it is likely that this is a bona fide manufacturer and he should be trusted.

In this case, you can proceed to the next stage of testing and conduct a visual inspection of the seedlings.

Attention should be paid to the following signs of plants:

  1. Age of seedlings should be no more than 7 weeks. To all the plants began to bear fruit at the same time, you should choose seedlings of about the same growth.
  2. Choose seedlings up to 0.3 m high. The seedling should be about 10-12 leaves.
  3. Pay attention to the stems (they must be of sufficient thickness), the root system must be developed, without dry spots.
  4. Check plants for pests and various diseases. In the event that the foliage is twisted, irregularly shaped, lethargy is clear evidence of an infectious disease. On the stem should be no different spots or pigmentation.
  5. In some cases, seedlings manufacturers use various growth accelerators for seed germination. Foliage, lowered down, while having a bright, unnaturally saturated color, is an indicator of abuse of such substances.
  6. Seedlings should be in containers with soil: if the seedlings are contained without soil, it is better not to acquire it.

Did you know? The closest relative of the tomatoes "Leader of the Redskins" is the famous, later variety, "Bull's Heart".

Soil and fertilizer

Tomatoes are very fond of sandy loam or loam of neutral acidity (pH not lower than 6), medium or above average fertility.

The soil under the tomatoes should be dug up in the fall, destroy the weeds and at the same time make fertilizer. It is necessary to fertilize with humus (5 kg per 1 sq. M) and mineral fertilizers (50 g of superphosphate or 25 g of potassium salt per 1 sq. M).

Mineral fertilizers also include such as "Sudarushka", "Kemira", "Ammophos", "Plantafol", "Master".

In the spring, just before planting the seedlings in the ground, the soil should be fertilized with bird droppings (1 kg per 1 sq. M), the same amount of wood ash and 25 g per 1 square. m of ammonium sulfate.

Tomatoes do not like the soil with high acidity. If you have one, you should treat it with lime (approximately 0.6-0.7 kg per 1 sq. M).

Tomatoes feel great on the ground, where they grew onions, beets, carrots. It is acceptable to plant after cucumbers and radishes. And do not break the beds where they grew the same tomatoes, zucchini, potatoes or legumes.

Growing conditions

In order for future seedlings to develop well, it needs to create favorable conditions:

  • good illumination - it is better that the windows face the south side, not be shaded (if there is little natural light, you need to add artificial);
  • sufficient moisture - the seedlings should be sprayed twice a day;
  • normal air temperature: in the afternoon - + 18-24 ° C; at night - + 13-16 ° С.

Important! In that case, if the seedlings will be planted in a greenhouse, sowing can be started 15-20 days earlier than the period recommended for open ground.

Growing from seed to seedlings at home

The estimated time for planting tomato seeds is 8-9 weeks before planting in open ground (greenhouse). Approximately in 1-1,5 weeks after planting the seeds the first shoots will appear.

Therefore, the estimated time that the seedlings will be on the window sill after emergence is 1.5-2 months. You need to carefully consider the timing of planting seeds, because if you overexpose the seedlings on the windowsill, an adult plant will not grow well and have low yields.

Approximate dates of sowing seeds for seedlings:

  • South of Russia and Ukraine - the last decade of February-mid-March (landing in the ground or greenhouse - from mid-April to III decade of May);
  • the center of Russia - from the middle to the end of March (landing in the ground or greenhouse - from the beginning of the II decade of May to the beginning of the summer);
  • North of Russia and everything farther than the Urals - from the beginning to the middle of April (landing in the ground - the middle of the third decade of May to the middle of June).

It is more accurate to calculate the time of planting seeds for seedlings using the following formula: from the end of the frost in your area, subtract 2 months (+/- 10 days) - this will be the optimal time for planting seeds on seedlings.

Seed preparation

In the event that you use packaged seeds of popular brands, you do not need to process them, they have already received the necessary disinfection. If the seeds are purchased on the market or they are your crop, they must be subjected to antiseptic processing.

For this fit the following tools:

  1. Potassium permanganate solution (1 g per 100 ml of water). Planting material is wrapped in gauze and kept in solution for 20 minutes. Then wash the seeds with running water.
  2. Soda solution (1 g per 200 ml of water). Soak the material for 1 day, in addition to aseptic, such baths have an effect that stimulates germination.
  3. Solution of "Fitosporin". If you use a liquid agent, you must dilute 1 drop of the drug in 100 ml of water. If powder is used, take 1 tsp. 200 ml of water. The procedure time is from one to two hours.

It is necessary to subject to decontamination and soil. Even if it was purchased in a package, this is not a guarantee of sterility, and there is nothing to say about garden soil.

You can perform the procedure as follows:

  • ignite the soil in the oven for 15 minutes at +200 ° C;
  • warm for two minutes in the microwave;
  • shed the soil with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate;
  • spill the soil with boiling water so that it comes out through the drainage holes.

You can complement one way to another, it will only benefit. After tillage, leave it for 1-1.5 weeks. This is sufficient time for the microorganisms useful and necessary for the plant to begin their vital activity in the ground.

Content and location

To begin with, fill the seed germination tanks with prepared and wetted soil. Peat pots, plastic utensils, plastic strawberry boxes (they have ready-made drainage holes) can serve as tanks.

A window sill can serve as a good place for germination if it is warm enough there. The location near the window increases the flow of light.

Did you know? There are about 10 thousand varieties of tomatoes. The smallest in mature form does not reach in diameter and 2 cm. And the mass of the largest - almost 1.5 kg There are fruits of pink, yellow, red and black flowers.

Seed planting process

In the soil need to make grooves 1 cm in depth. The distance between the grooves is 3-4 cm. The seeds are laid in the grooves (3-4 cm step). You can withstand a greater distance, then there will be no immediate need to plant seedlings from sowing tare. The grooves should be covered with earth.

You can go a simpler way: the seeds laid in the furrows are covered with a layer of soil 1 cm thick. The seeds container is covered with glass or film, this will create the necessary moisture and contribute to the retention of heat. The optimum temperature is + 26-30 ° C.

So, if the window sill is cool, you should create an additional source of heat (a central heating radiator, for example).

It is also necessary to monitor the soil moisture. If the soil dries - moisten it with a spray gun, if the humidity level is exceeded - remove the insulating glass and wait for the soil to dry.

Due to the strong moisture on the surface of the soil may develop fungus. In the event that this happens, carefully remove the top layer of soil and treat the rest of the soil with antifungal agents (Fundazol, Fitosporin).

The first shoots appear after 3-5 days, if the air directly above the surface layer of the soil is heated to + 25-28 ° C, and about two days later, if the air t is + 20-25 ° С. If the temperature is kept at + 10-12 ° C, seedlings will have to wait about 2 weeks or a little more.

Important! Manure for fertilizing tomatoes when landing in the ground should not be used - it will give a green mass increase, with very few ovaries.

Seedling care

For the normal cultivation of seedlings an indispensable condition is the presence of sufficient illumination. After the first shoots germinate, provide the plants with as much natural light as possible.

But even the brightest window sill at the end of winter and early spring will not provide adequate lighting, so it will be necessary to supplement it with artificial light.

A rather common method of Tugarov is practiced, according to which the first three days require continuous (round-the-clock) coverage of sprouts, after which the intensity should be reduced to 16 hours each day.

Recently sprouted shoots should be kept in conditions of 100% humidity. Insulating coating (film, glass) should be removed every day for a short time, gradually increasing it. Finally, the plant can be opened in 10-15 days.

Saplings can do for a long time without watering. An indicator of the need for irrigation is the condition of the soil. It should be constantly moistened, but so as not to turn into dirt.

But drying should not be allowed (the roots of the plants are still very small, are entirely in the upper layer, and its drying will cause the roots to dry out).

Water the seedlings should be very carefully, under the very stem of the plant. You can use a syringe without a needle. After the film is removed, watering should be increased. With the growth of a sunny day, the plant will also grow faster, therefore, it will need more moisture.

To seedlings not dried, it is necessary to control the soil moisture in the morning. With intensive growth, young shoots are able to take all the moisture from the soil during the day. By evening, the plant may already have drooping foliage due to daytime sunlight and its own active growth, which takes away moisture from the soil.

Fill the young seedlings too. Keep in mind: dried and flooded seedlings look the same - sluggish foliage, lack of stem stiffness. In this case, pay attention to the condition of the soil: if it is wet, then the plant was flooded.

There is no question of any additional watering. Place the container with seedlings in a place without access to direct sunlight and wait until the soil is completely dry. After that, adjust the intensity of further watering.

Did you know? American farmer Robert Baur in 2003 brought a hybrid "tomacco" by grafting tomato on the stock of tobacco. It looks like a tomato and contains nicotine.

It is extremely dangerous for young shoots to combine cold with moist soil. So, it is not advisable to spend evening watering until April, as nighttime temperatures can lead to freezing of the root system and the death of the plant.

With the onset of warm spring days, when there is no wind, take the seedlings to a balcony or street. On a warm sunny March day, the air temperature can reach + 16-18 ° С. This procedure is used to harden and develop resistance to sunlight in the plant.

Immediately after the shoot, tomatoes have a natural UV-protection (from ultraviolet). So, if you have a sprout cut through, and the weather is warm, windless, do not be afraid to bring the “baby” to the fresh air, nothing will happen to it.

If you didn’t manage to do this on the day of the shoot (you forgot or didn’t have the appropriate weather), you should not do it in a few days. In this case, you need to gradually accustom the plant to sunlight. You can start with a five-minute walk, adding five minutes daily.

Seedlings should begin to feed after 15-20 days after germination. Then shoots fertilize weekly. It is better to use organic matter - a light solution of manure or grass greens. Biohumus will also work, you need to apply 1/2 of the dose recommended for normal feeding.

When the seedlings reach the age of 6 weeks, the first ovaries of floral brushes will begin to appear. Their appearance is a sign that in 1.5-2 weeks it is time to plant the seedlings in the ground. If you do not have time to transplant seedlings for permanent residence, in the future it may reduce its yield.

If the seedlings will continue to be in the seedling tanks, take care of enough land for it (1 l / 1 shoot).

If the tomatoes are in small hotbeds for more than a prescribed period of at least 1-1.5 weeks and bloom at the same time, they will not grow anymore and will remain as small even after transplantation into the open ground.

This problem can be solved in this way: to cut off the first floral ovary, the next one will be no earlier than in 6-7 days - this is a delay for the transplant procedure.

Transplanting seedlings to ground

The distance between the bushes in the greenhouse or in the open ground should be about 0.4 m. In case you decide to make an individual container for each plant (for example, on the balcony), it should be borne in mind that each tomato bush of the “Red Leader” variety "needs 9-12 liters of land.

Familiarize yourself with the rules for growing tomatoes on the windowsill.

For tomatoes it is well suited chernozem mixed with peat in equal parts.

Try to pick up a cool day for planting seedlings in the ground so that there is no wind and no open sunlight. Dip the stem of each plant 2-3 cm into the ground. After 3-5 days, the root system will begin to develop and keep the plant well.

After planting, the tomatoes need to be watered with warm water.

Important! The seedlings, which are exposed daily to the open sun, by the time they disembark at a permanent place of growth, their growth quickly catches up with the seeds sown a month earlier, but which was kept in isolation in conditions of a lack of lighting.

Agricultural technology of growing tomato seeds in the open ground

To grow tomatoes, "The leader of the Redskins" can also be from seeds in open ground, especially in southern Russia and most of the territory of Ukraine. This variety is not afraid of short frosts.

And to the seeds in the ground, the light April frosts of the night, which are occasionally in our latitudes, are not dangerous at all.

Outdoor conditions

For cultivation of tomatoes seeds suitable for both greenhouse and open ground. If you are going to grow in the ground, pay attention to the above compatibility of tomatoes and those crops that grew in this place before them. The place should be, if possible, protected from the wind.

Tomatoes do not like the overcooling of the root system, so the greenhouse is safer for the plant, although it requires a larger amount of work (it is necessary to prepare the soil and the greenhouse itself since autumn).

On the other hand, if the tomatoes are properly grown in the open field, they will be more hardened, tolerate both heat and cold, disease and pests.

Inspect the vending site. Calculate (based on the minimum 0.4 m between plants and 0.6 m between rows), how many bushes can be planted in this area.

If you have both a greenhouse and a suitable place in an open area, try combining - plant some tomatoes in a greenhouse, some in the open air. It will be interesting to compare the results after harvest.

Did you know? Red tomatoes have more nutrients than yellow ones.

The process of planting seeds in the ground

Seeds before planting should be soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, then rinsed. Carefully rinse the seeds with one layer in the center of the cotton scarf. Then roll it into a roll. Lower one end of the roller into the nutrient solution.

Several recipes for preparing a solution:

  • 0.5 tablets of "Immunocytofit" to 0.5 liters of water;
  • 0.25 tsp. nitrophosphates or Cinderella products with 0.5 liters of water;
  • melt water or strong tea.

The wick which turned out at you lower in nutrient solution on 2 cm and send seeds together with feed in the refrigerator. After 3 days, transfer the seed container to heat, cover with paper and hold for 3 more days.

Start sowing seeds should be around mid-May. They should be sprouted by this time.

In each well with a depth of 5-7 cm, put 2-3 seeds of tomato, add on the slivers of urea and humus. The distance between the holes is not less than 0.4 m, the aisles are 0.6 m. Cover the holes with earth and slightly tamp.

If you live in the northern areas, cover the hole with a half plastic bottle (transparent).

In case of significant frosts, warm with mulch (straw). After the plants reach a height of 10-13 cm, remove the cover. It is more expedient to do this in the evening.

Above the tomatoes, collect a frame of plastic pipes, cover with non-woven material or agrofibre.

Watering

We should not think that plants that love moisture, need to be watered as often as possible. Watering should be done as the soil dries. If the weather is fine, there is no precipitation and it is not very hot; 1 watering per week is enough.

Water should not be cold, rainwater is best suited to the natural daytime temperature.

Tomatoes like watering drip or underground type. With the help of plastic bottles to organize such irrigation is not difficult. This irrigation system allows you to give greater yield, while reducing the risk of developing diseases. You can also water the ash solution.

Watering should be rare, but quite abundant, especially when the fruit is tied. Frequent low-volume watering is not suitable for the "Leader of the Redskins" (however, as for other varieties of tomatoes).

During watering, direct the water jet so that it does not erode the soil. Avoid getting water on foliage and fruit.

Important! Green tomatoes contain solanine - a poisonous glycoalkaloid that can even lead to a fatal outcome in sufficient concentration. When the fruit ripens, it decomposes completely. That is why the ripening of green fruits is necessary for the room to be well ventilated.

Watering tomatoes is better in the evening, when the heat subsides. Then the moisture is better absorbed, because without sunlight it is absorbed evenly and does not evaporate. To find out if a tomato gets enough moisture, take a look at its leaves: if they are dark and wilted, there is a lack of moisture.

You can water the tomatoes filling beds. For this you need to form a double row of beds. In the middle and on the sides make the grooves. They let in water, which should fill these edges to the brim.

With this method, the soil is well soaked. Similarly, you can water the tomatoes before fruiting, 1-2 times a week will be enough. Approximately, up to 10 liters of water are needed per plant. Then the intensity of watering should be reduced.

Soil loosening and weeding

Regularly conduct a visual inspection of the land around the bushes. In the event that a crust appears, it should be burst. This circumstance should not scare you: the crust, as a rule, appears regularly after each rain. Mulch the soil around the bushes, this will prevent the ground from drying out.

To loosen the soil should be after each watering, that is, about twice a week. The procedure is carried out in conjunction with the weeding. In the first 15-20 days, they are loosened to a depth of about 10 cm, later, when the root system grows, the depth is reduced to 7 cm in order not to damage the roots.

If the soil is heavy enough, in those places where there are no roots, loosen deeper.

When the bush grows up, loosening is combined with hilling. It does not allow naked roots and helps the normal warming up of the soil and branching of the root system. The first hilling is done 15-20 days after landing, the next - after the same time. Spud can be wet ground or humus.

Weeding is carried out as needed. We need to weed between the rows and the space between the bushes (neatly).

Did you know? The world's largest tomato weighing almost 3 kg was grown in the United States, Wisconsin.

Masking

Gotting is the procedure necessary for removing the stepsons — shoots that can turn a shrub into a plant with a large number of stems. They will have many flowers and subsequently many fruits.

But all of them will be small and will not have time to ripen, as all the beneficial substances that the plant takes from the soil will go to the growth of green mass. Immunity of the plant is reduced, it is affected by various characteristic diseases that can go to other cultures.

Learn how to properly pinch tomatoes in the greenhouse and in the open field.

"The leader of the Redskins" refers to determinant varieties, that is, those that are limited in growth. Such varieties in the early stages of development is not worth the stepson, otherwise the bush can stop growing. For normal development do not remove the stepson located under the upper inflorescence.

Later, this escape can be removed, it will replace the one that is located above, and so on. This procedure will allow the bush to grow and develop. In a warm climate is to give the bush to grow into three stalks. Such a method will create more favorable conditions for the plant to exist.

Some of the burying rules:

  • the formation of culture should begin after it confidently grows;
  • it is better to remove the stepsons with their hands (after reaching them about 6 cm in length), so that a “stump” 1.5 cm high remains;
  • strawberry tomatoes better in the morning.

Important! Tomatoes are rich in healthy minerals. Potassium has a beneficial effect on the heart, magnesium adapts the body to any climatic conditions, zinc - excellent remedy for anemia, phosphorus - an indispensable element in endocrine processes, calcium gives the bones a fortress.

Garter

Some gardeners believe that tying up tomatoes of determinantal varieties is not necessary. There is a logic to this, as low-growing varieties really do not really need this procedure. Therefore, we dwell only on the main points concerning the garter of tomatoes.

Some advantages of tying tomatoes:

  • tall varieties are tied up to avoid breaking the branches during fruiting;
  • tied up plant gets more sunlight;
  • unconnected branch lying on the ground is defenseless against pests;
  • even if the plant has a strong stalk, it is vulnerable to wind or heavy rain;
  • the bush spends its strength on staying in a steady position, the garter relieves the plant from this kind of struggle for vitality;
  • tied plants are easier to water;
  • pasynkovanie, harvesting and care easier to hold on a tied plant.

That is, the tying procedure is aimed at facilitating the life of the plant, and, accordingly, increasing its viability and yield.

The following are the main types of tying:

  • garter on stakes;
  • on the trellis;
  • cells;
  • caps

On the Internet you can find a lot of more detailed information about each of the methods of garter, but it is worth repeating that there is a rather popular point of view among experienced gardeners that for determinantal varieties, such as the “Red Leader”, no garter is required.

If you still decide to tie up a bush, it is worth saying that the first two methods (stakes and trellis) are not quite suitable for this variety. Stop picking on cages or caps.

Did you know? In terms of botany, tomatoes are a berry. In 1893, the US Supreme Court ruled that tomatoes - vegetables, because despite the fact that tomatoes are developed from seed, like other fruits and berries, they are not used as dessert, they can be eaten raw. However, in 2001, the EU decided to classify tomatoes as fruit.

Top dressing

After the appearance of the first two leaves of tomatoes, shoots should be thinned. In each well, leave one plant, the rest are cut, in any case not pulled out. After 2 days, the plant must be fed with ammonium nitrate (15 g per 10 l of water). For one shoot, 500 ml of fertilizer is sufficient.

Repeated feeding will be needed when the plant begins to bear fruit. You need 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium chloride. Fertilizers fall asleep in grooves up to 6 cm in depth, at a distance of 0.2 m from the plants, and the grooves are covered with earth. The procedure should be carried out on well-moistened soil.

Suitable as a fertilizer and water infusion of mullein (20 kg per 10 buckets of water, infusion time - 9-12 days). To feed the seedlings, you need to dilute 1 liter of infusion in a bucket of water. On one plant - 500 ml of solution.

Pests, diseases and prevention

Among the pests that pose the greatest threat to tomatoes are:

  • Medvedka - it is found on well-moistened soils with a large amount of manure. The danger is represented by both adult individuals and larva larvae. Insects make passages in the soil, gnaw a stem, harming a tomato bush. They fight with them with the help of various insecticides ("Aktara", "Rubit", "Force", "Grizzly", "Konfidor", "Bowerin", "Medvetoks", etc.). Do not fertilize tomatoes with mullein, you need to loosen the aisles to destroy the eggs, you can land marigolds around the perimeter of the plot (scare the insect with its smell).

  • Wireworm - harms the root and stem of the plant. The tomato stops development, withers and turns yellow. For prevention use "Basudin". The tool is mixed with sand and sawdust and buried near the plant.

  • Scoop on tomatoes - night pest. The caterpillar destroys the tops, and as it matures, it takes on buds and ovaries. When the fruits appear, scoop does not ignore them. They struggle with it with the help of folk remedies: planting calendula, spraying infusion of arrows and fruits of garlic, tincture of burdock.

Important! Tomatoes contain a large amount of vitamins A and C, as well as fiber. They also contain lycopene, a pigment that is not produced in the human body. He is powerful antioxidant that reduces the risk of cancer and prevents the development of cardiovascular diseases.

The most characteristic diseases of tomatoes:

  • White spot- fungal disease of leaves and stem. Red spots appear, the leaves fall, pathogens overwinter on them. To eliminate the disease, a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid is used, in the spring and autumn they destroy the fallen leaves.
  • Blackleg- fungal disease of leaves and stem. The pathogen is in the soil. To avoid the appearance, it is necessary to treat the soil with colloidal sulfur (5 mg per 1 sq. M) and potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 l) before planting. In the event of a disease, diseased plants are removed along with the soil. It is necessary to control that the soil is not too wet and has a high temperature.

  • Phyllosticosis - infects the lower leaves of the tomato bush. On the front side of the sheet - yellow spots, on the back - olive. Foliage dries and showered. It should reduce air humidity to 60%. Copper sulfate is used, and the plant is transplanted to another place (if it is a greenhouse).
  • Late blight - fungal disease transmitted through air, soil, seed material. The cause of the disease is a lack of iodine, manganese, potassium and copper. It should be treated with 2% salt solution.

  • Bacterial necrosis - leads to the death of the kidneys. White spots appear with black ulcers in the middle. The reason for the appearance are high humidity and temperature. A plant infected with this disease should be destroyed.

As already mentioned above, the variety “Leader of the Redskins” is quite disease-resistant. Therefore, if you do everything correctly and follow the recommendations, it is unlikely that the above problems will affect you.

Common diseases of tomatoes include fusarium wilt, clasporiosis, leaf curl, and alternaria.

Harvesting and storage

Tomatoes have 4 degrees of ripeness: green tomatoes, milky, brown and red. Tomatoes that were going red should be consumed (processed) as quickly as possible. It is more expedient to pick tomatoes brown.

Tomatoes do not tolerate frost, if they are cooled for a sufficient time at t + 4 ° C, they will no longer ripen. From this it follows that, even if your tomatoes are bearing fruit until late, you should not delay their harvesting until the night temperature has dropped to the indicated figure.

Did you know? If, however, proceed from the fact that the tomato - this is a fruit, then you should pay attention to the fact that it is the most popular fruit on the planet. Its annual production - 60 million tons (more than 15% of which is grown by China), this is 16 million tons more than bananas are grown, and 24 million tons more than the total apple crop on the entire planet.

If the tomatoes are collected on time, you can significantly extend their use. There is such a way: the bushes of green tomatoes are uprooted, placed in piles with a height of 0.6-0.8 m, covered with roots, covered with hay.

A week later, when it is warm outside, hay (straw) is lifted and ripe tomatoes are selected. And they do this until the remaining fruits ripen, periodically removing the diseased or rotten.

Tomatoes reach well in greenhouses at + 17-24 ° C and about 75% air humidity. The greenhouses are whitewashed to prevent sunburn, and the frost is covered with straw.

Tomatoes reach and in the room, laid out in a single layer. Fruits should be turned over and the room ventilated.

Possible problems and recommendations

There are some drawbacks when growing “Red Leader” tomatoes from seeds in the ground: you need more seeds than when you first grow seedlings, fruiting begins later, and their number is about 1/4 less than with seedling.

But, thanks to this method of cultivation, tomatoes grow more disease-resistant, better tolerate heat and cold, and bear fruit to the frost.

Important! Tomatoes are contraindicated in cholelithiasis, hypertension and kidney stones.

There may be fairly common problems characteristic of the cultivation of tomatoes, for example, fallen leaves or fruits.

Here are some of the most common causes of leaf fall in tomatoes:

  • the soil is very moist - the soil should not turn into dirt, it needs to dry out enough;
  • a small amount of sunlight can also cause fallen leaves;
  • lack of nutrients;
  • some diseases (white spot).
Tomatoes varieties "Red Leader", as already mentioned, in addition to excellent taste, perfectly suited for preservation entirely. And their resistance to external adverse factors makes it possible to enjoy ripe juicy tomatoes until the frost.

Thus, having gathered and processing the harvest of ripe tomatoes, necessary for September conservation, you can enjoy fresh vegetable salads from brown, gradually ripening fruits, up to the onset of winter cold.

Watch the video: How to: Grow Tomatoes from Seed A Complete Step by Step Guide (April 2024).